Yesterday, a gigantic pulse of swell headed straight for South Africa's western region – setting Dungeons off for a colossal day of surfing.
The swell rifled in from the SW, capping out at 15ft@15seconds aka prime big wave numbers. Wind was light in the morning, before swinging offshore towards the afternoon. But even then, with the figures stacking, you never quite know what flavour of Dungeons you're going to get. Though large surf yesterday, it was a little inconsistent, with the odd monster steaming through the lineup. Then, sometimes, you can find a little bit of wobble. Steps the size of trucks. An unexpected beat down of severe magnitude. It's a gamble, but one the locals will double down on, especially as this was one of the better sessions on paper to pip through recently.
And as you can expect when numbers reach nose-bleed status, that crew took to it with vigour and brutality. Matt Bromley was in the fold, of course, along with Josh Redman, James Taylor, Frank Solomon and many more.
“The forecast looked amazing”, says Brom dog when MSW asks about the session. “No wind and a big long period swell. As we arrived, the mist came in with a little wonky onshore breeze which made it super tricky.
“It wasn’t super large, but Dungeons always musters up the power. On the deep peak, every now and then, a chunky, 15-18ft piece of water would march in and go psycho, square on the bowl.”
We all know Dungeons is no joke. A face that can sometimes be punctuated with ridges, ledges and speed bumps, enough to knock the most experienced of hellmen from a foamy perch to the locker of Davey Jones.
As Matt says: “My wave of the session was a big wedge. I paddled under it and then half way down, a ledge grew up in the face. I knew I was done on my 10’2”. I tried to stick it but my board wouldn’t fit into the curve of the wave. I nose dived and went up and over the falls.
“The stillness seemed like forever, going up and over. And then it was crazy violent. My ears popped and I considered pulling my vest with the impact but then the wave released me and it was all good. After that, I’m seriously considering trying a 8ft board to knife one of those crazy steep ones.
“Torrey Meister pulled in along with frank Solomon and Josh Redman. All the boys got some bombs and it was so good to get another session out there at the mystical Dungeons.”
Lensman Ant Fox added: “Conditions were good but susceptible to wind. Beautiful light at times for shooting. A bit lumpy with south swell walls causing a bit of havoc with guys getting caught and a few boards broken. It wasn't a long day out there, but plenty action.”