January Pipe Spectacular (and J.O.B's disastrous board transfer)
FORGET 100ft waves, Jamie O'Brien is back to his old tricks of mid-wave board transfers for hits and giggles.
"I took off, started fading deep âcause it was kinda angled, then I just faded a bottom turn." He told our friends at Stab "That foamy is pretty much the worst surfboard in the world. I got lucky, I popped right out of the back, instantly. I was stoked on that one. That was my second time trying it on a big left. I went with the same theory, but on a 10 foot double-up second reef wave. There was so much water drawing off the reef that when I stepped off I didnât have much speed at that point. It started sucking me high and I was waiting for it to release me, âcause it was perfect. It was almost a dream wave, then almost turned into a nightmare."
© 2013 Dylan Roberts