EVAN Geiselman grew up in New Smyrna Beach, Florida and it didn’t look anything like this.
Evan is known for his airs, his skin tone reflects hours surfing in pleasant climes and he’s replete with a finner up there with anyone. But that don’t cut it anymore, it isn’t enough to just be an air guy, John John kicked that to the curb. Evan knows this and he’s in the frame of mind to put in the time with waves of consequence.
You might have seen the ferocious curvature of Teahupoo a 1000 times, but this rearing impenetrable wall hugging a plunging coral curb ain’t got any friendlier. Even at a few feet pushing yourself over that inverted ledge whilst eyeballing the dry reef in front of you is terrifying.
Doing it at double overhead having never surfed there before? Well that’s something worth watching and it doesn’t come easy. Evan has to pay his Tahitian dues.
Kepa finds himself in a land of perpetual dancing and broad smiles.
Pick a solid swell, make the treacherous paddle, avoid the fang-like rocks on the inside, and you could score some of the longest rights of your life.
If Jack Kerouac surfed he would have chewed his beatnik leg off to get on this trip. Desert Point to Shipstern and everything in between.
Not all winter is cold, even if the country is in danger of washing away there will be surfers lapping up the storms
Those two imposters, triumph and disaster, go hand in hand in the sport of bodyboarding, especially for those hellmen who push the boundaries of what is surfable.